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Thursday, 23 May 2013

Chelsea Flower:



Chelsea Flower :


This year's Chelsea Flower Show starts next Tuesday of June House & Garden for some of the highlights), but alternative garden festival the Chelsea Fringe gets underway this weekend, with gardens, floral displays, pop-up shops and other events taking place all over London - including the following (from left):



Battersea Power Station will open its grounds to the public for the first time in 30 years to be the principal hub for the festival, with a 2.5-acre pop-up park featuring planting installations, site-specific theatre and poetry events, and free-standing hammocks with integrated speakers playing a special 'soundscape'



The shops of the Brompton Design District, including The Conran Shop, Fermoie, Jonathan Adler and Cassina, will take part with window displays and special installations - including, at Squint, the Museum of Terrariums: a pop-up shop by The Balcony Gardener of English-grown container gardens, available to buy or order in bespoke palettes.



Garden designer (and former House & Garden staffer) Anna Rose Hughes has created an intriguing secret garden in a neglected space beyond a disused toilet block in Vanguard Court, a yard of artists' studios in Camberwell. Her design will incorporate romantic, luxurious planting and a fernery, and we can't wait to see how she has transformed this seemingly uninspiring space.



For a mix of fashion and flora, check out the work of Swedish installation artist Clara Hallencreutz, including this Chanel logo picked out in flowers, on show at the Opera Gallery in New Bond Street.



And when it's time for a break, The Dorchester is teaming up with Laurent-Perrier to offer a floral-themed afternoon tea, with lemon, violet and lavender-infused cakes served with a glass of Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé, a special floral display on the Promenade, and a pop-up flower shop.



The Chelsea Fringe runs until June 9


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Sunday, 19 May 2013

Planting and Care of Young Grapevines

Planting and Care of Young Grapevines


Planting Site: Plant in full sun if possible, or in an area with at least 6 hours of sun exposure. Decreasing the hours of sun can affect grape quality and increase the disease incidence. Construct an arbor or trellis to support the vines. Plant where the soil is at least 2 ft. deep, preferably where there is no compacted soil layer below.

Planting the Potted Grape: Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant's container. However, if the soil is compacted, make the hole up to 3' in diameter. Make the hole about as deep as the grape was growing in the container. Carefully remove the grape plant by squeezing the sides of the pot and then turning the pot upside down with your hand supporting the soil. Plant the grape using the soil that was removed from the original hole. Amendments are not needed in the planting hole. Water the soil thoroughly.

Staking the Vine: Attach the new vine to a stake, post, or arbor as it grows the first year; green plastic tape works well. Tying the new shoot will ensure a straight trunk.

Watering the Vine: Keep the soil around the new vine moist but not constantly saturated. Check for moisture with your finger or dig down into the soil. Once established and growing well, water deeply and less frequently, about weekly if flooding or bi-weekly if drip irrigated. Use mulch to reduce soil moisture loss.

Fertilizer: No fertilizer is needed at planting time, and very little nitrogen if any is needed later. Too much nitrogen promotes excessive vegetative growth, which can cause diseases and poor grape quality.

Pruning: If first year growth is slow, cut back the vines to only two healthy buds in the winter after the first growing season. Train the most vigorous shoot up the stake to form the trunk, and prune out the weaker of the two shoots. The variety of grape determines the type of pruning (spur or cane) to use. Consult The Sunset Western Garden Book to determine the right pruning method.

Pest Management: You can expect to encounter the disease powdery mildew, and sometimes bunch rot. Powdery mildew can show up as a white powdery coating on all parts of the plant. It is often not necessary to control it the first season because there is no fruit. Powdery mildew can be controlled by spraying or dusting with sulfur beginning in the spring when the new growth is about 1 inch long and continuing at 7 to 10 day intervals through June. Bunch rot occurs when a fungus or bacteria gets into a damaged fruit. These rots can be controlled by removing the leaves around the clusters on the north or east sides when the grapes are the size of peas (usually early June). Erineum mites are microscopic pests that cause large, puckered spots on leaves. The underside of the pucker is initially white and furry, and turns brown in the summer. The problem is cosmetic only and does not reduce fruit production or quality. Control with insecticidal soap early in the season. Where early treatments of sulfur are applied to control powdery mildew, erineum mites are seldom seen.




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May Gardening Tips

May Gardening Tips


*Grow your own dried flowers. Raise statice, globe amaranth, straw flowers and other everlastings to provide flowers for this year's arrangements.

* Plant gladioli bulbs in late May.

*Set out marigold, petunia, ageratum and fibrous begonia transplants. All are good border plants.

*To grow annuals in containers on the patio, use a light weight soil mixture. Keep the plants well-watered, because the soil dries out fast. Apply a water soluble fertilizer according to package directions every two weeks.

*Watering roses with soaker hoses or drip irrigation will reduce the spread of black spot disease.

*Plant ground covers under shade trees that do not allow enough sunlight to grow grass. Vinca minor or English ivy are ground cover plants that grow well in shade.

*Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This practice reduces weeds, controls fluctuations in soil temperature, retains moisture, prevents damage from lawn mowers and looks attractive.

*When you visit botanical gardens and arboretums, take your camera and note pad with you. Plan now for changes you will make in your landscape.

*For maximum landscape interest in a small, vertical space, try annual vines. They can disguise ugly walls and fences. When trellised, they can create shade and privacy while hiding undesirable views. Try morning glory, nasturtium vine and scarlet runner bean.

*Plan a landscaping project on paper first. Do not over plant. Be sure you know the mature size of each plant and allow for growth.

*Lawns maintained at the correct height are less likely to have disease and weed infestation. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue should be mowed at two or three inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than one third of the blade at each cutting.

*Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.

*Cabbage loopers and imported cabbage worms are green worms. They leave large holes in the leaves of plants in the cabbage family. For control, caterpillars can be picked off by hand or sprayed with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a natural, non-toxic preparation available by various trade names.

*Newly transplanted vegetable plants should be protected from cutworms with collars. Cut strips of cardboard two inches wide by eight inches long, staple them into circles and place them around the plants. Press the collar about one inch into the soil. These collars will fence out the cutworms and protect the stems of the vegetable plants.

*Stay out of the garden when the vegetable plant leaves are wet. Walking through a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.

* Four or five layers of newspaper will serve as an effective mulch in the garden. Cover it with grass clippings or straw to prevent it from blowing away.

*Put tools away at the end of the day. Clean them and hang them up so they are ready to use and easy to find when you need them.

*To better evaluate your gardening successes, keep weather records along with garden records. The most important items to report are daily minimum and maximum temperatures, precipitation, cloud cover and frost occurrences.



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Friday, 17 May 2013

Red Garden

 Anime: Red Garden:


It started with the butterflies.

Claire, Rose, Rachel and Kate — four New York City girls from the same school but from very different backgrounds and social circles — are drawn together one night by a flock of mysterious butterflies that only they can see. Waiting for them are two mysterious figures — a woman named Lula and her partner, JC — who inform the four girls that they are dead.

In order to continue in their borrowed lives, the heroines are forced to fight for them. Each night, they must wait until midnight before they can rest. If the butterflies come to them before midnight, the girls must follow them and fight a twisted, bestial man with no help and no skills but their own will to live.

Thereafter, the lives of the girls (and the plot of the anime) revolve around coming to terms with these facts and the "suicide" of their friend Lise. Their deaths and the rabid men they are forced to fight all tie back to a strange and influential family.

Combining elements of horror, music — the girls occasionally break into song — and teen drama, Red Garden takes a very different approach to the girls-fighting-monsters genre.




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